About Me

Climber: Alex Luger
Route: 7th Direction
Location: Rätikon
Climber: Alex Luger Route: 7th Direction Location: Rätikon

I feel very close to nature, I think we are still very connected to it. I feel peace and satisfaction out there. For me climbing, being outdoors, feeling the power and the pulse of nature is reality.                                                           Alex Luger

Biggest accomplishments

  • First ascent of The Gift 8c alpine/trad, Drusenfluh Rätikon
  • First repeat of Prinzip Hoffnung E9 /8b, trad clean, Bürser Platte
  • First ascent of Psychogramm 8b+ trad clean, Bürser Platte
  • First ascent of Sangre de Toro 8b+ alpine, Rote Wand
  • First ascent of Stourraniibi WI6 M7 clean 6 pitches, Norway
  • Free solo ground up of Zerstoere dein Ego 8a+, Ardetzenberg
  • First Ascent of The Winners Loose It All Some Day (WI5 /M6 X/ clean /300m)
  • First ascent of Piece Of Mind (WI5+ /M6 /clean /250m)

Favourite spot / location(s)

  • Rote Wand Vorarlberg,
  • Indian Himalaya,
  • the ice in Norway,
  • Canyonlands Utah,
  • Verdon France,
  • Swiss Alps and the remote mountain ranges I still have to explore…
  • Patagonia


About Me

Alex is a climber since his early ages on. He grew up in a climbing family where vacations always took place at famous rock climbing destinations like Arco, Finale, or the Gorge du Verdon. After eleven years, Alex began to be fully connected with the sport, which had and still has a huge impact on his life.

“It felt natural to be in these surroundings on a big face at the Verdon,” explained Alex, “the simple nature of escaping this threatening situation made me happy and satisfied. I think this was the point where climbing got more important than skateboarding or playing any other games.”

Alex has fulfilled his common boyhood ambition of becoming as strong as his father. His incredible ticklist of climbs – from 8b+ traditional routes with huge run-outs through to WI6+ ice climbs and 8c+ sport routes – places Luger in the top 0.1% of climbers operating in the world today. Known for his hard new routes with minimal gear and no bolts, Luger puts this bold style down to his upbringing.

“I still feel very privileged to have grown up in a climbing community with values and respect for the history of our region. Very early in my climbing career, I was in touch with ethics and saw lots of different motivations why people climb. My way of climbing has been influenced by my surroundings- the physical landscape and the people.”