Climber: Alex Luger Route: 7th Direction Location: Rätikon, Ray Demski Seventh Direction (UIAA 11-, 220m) first ascent in the Rätikon “Western culture speaks of four directions. Native American cultures throughout the continent recognize seven. There are the cardinal directions of East, South, West, and North, directions that correspond to our life cycle of birth, youth, … Continue reading The Climbing day of my life
How to describe this ice season with one word- Hurry
I had two first ascents in mind for this year's ice climbing season. To plan a new climb on ice means to have a good strategy, and then it's all about the timing, to be at the right time on the right spot. You have to keep the objective dangers and the conditions of the … Continue reading How to describe this ice season with one word- Hurry
First Ascents of two Winter Climbs
This year I missed the ice climbing season at home due to my stay at Patagonia. Social media showed that ice climbs in Western Austria where standing solid and my thoughts drifted immediately to some projects I still have in mind speculating about if they have formed or not. While people climbed the extreme classics … Continue reading First Ascents of two Winter Climbs
Speech on Saturday the 28th of February
I will talk about my adventures from first ascents in the Val Ferrera to remote peaks in Patagonia. http://www.valferrera.com/eiskletter-stammtisch
My hardest Route – The Gift
Inexhaustible potential, walls as far as my eyes can see. Obviously the lines are no longer to be found at the highest and steepest walls, they are often not easy to spot and require some commitment at the access. There are still enough opportunities for new routes. But what about the kinglines on … Continue reading My hardest Route – The Gift
Dru Couloir Direct March15
Hanno and I where driving through Switzerland and discussed what we should climb in Chamonix. A few hours before our departure I had a chat with Chamonix local Jack Gerdald and he recommended the North Couloir Direct of the Dru. It was easy to convince Hanno for this climb. The following day we took our … Continue reading Dru Couloir Direct March15
Two First Ascents at the Averstal
I was busy with the thing I love! Climbing! Climbing in the alpine on rock snow and ice. Just being out there I feel happy. After a very hard alpine summer where I was working on my project in the Rätikon (bailed very close to finish it) the snow arrived too early and I had … Continue reading Two First Ascents at the Averstal
PsychoGramm – How far can I push my clean climbing ?
I set off, tension, adrenalin, focus, concentrated willpower, freedom. I fall, the rope catches me, life, relief, joy… The micro-nut has held the fall. The Bürser Platte in Vorarlberg - it´s climbing history resembles a roller coaster ride. From the quarry to a „techno playground“ of artificial climbing „aka“ piton raging. Then the sport climbing … Continue reading PsychoGramm – How far can I push my clean climbing ?
Sangre de Toro on the cover of the new Vorarlberg Alpine Guidebook by Panico
All my first ascents at the Rote Wand are now featured in the new alpine guide and much more nice routes and walls of our region.
Exposure and the First Snow….
This summer was not really a summer, in my region it rained a lot but I tried my best to get on my new project on the rare days without rain and blizzards. I did a first ascent on a 350+meters face with the upper headwall constantly overhanging. The steepness of the face made the … Continue reading Exposure and the First Snow….