My hardest Route – The Gift

 

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The crux pitch of the Gift, 8c Pic. Beat Kammerlander

 

Inexhaustible potential, walls as far as my eyes can see. Obviously the lines are no longer to be found at the highest and steepest walls, they are often not easy to spot and require some commitment at the access.
There are still enough opportunities for new routes. But what about the kinglines on the large walls of the Northern Limestone Alps, to be more specific – the Rätikon?

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PsychoGramm – How far can I push my clean climbing ?

I set off, tension, adrenalin, focus, concentrated willpower, freedom. I fall, the rope catches me, life, relief, joy… The micro-nut has held the fall.

The Bürser Platte in Vorarlberg – it´s climbing history resembles a roller coaster ride. From the quarry to a „techno playground“ of artificial climbing „aka“ piton raging. Then the sport climbing era, free and as difficult as the routes could possibly be, but certainly safe. Then – a long time of silence around this unique wall. Up until Beat Kammerlander had a vision in mind. Continue reading

Exposure and the First Snow….

This summer was not really a summer, in my region it rained a lot but I tried my best to get on my new project on the rare days without rain and blizzards. I did a first ascent on a 350+meters face with the upper headwall constantly overhanging. The steepness of the face made the climbing into the unknown very intense because there is not much to rest on. Now I am working on the redpoint. The day before yesterday it snowed 20cm on the summit. Summer is really over. Hope there will be some nice weather still to come for some quality tries on the route.

 

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The headwall is steep.

 

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Chilling out on a small ledge befor the crux pitch. All pictures Alex Luger collection.