PsychoGramm – How far can I push my clean climbing ?

I set off, tension, adrenalin, focus, concentrated willpower, freedom. I fall, the rope catches me, life, relief, joy… The micro-nut has held the fall.

The Bürser Platte in Vorarlberg – it´s climbing history resembles a roller coaster ride. From the quarry to a „techno playground“ of artificial climbing „aka“ piton raging. Then the sport climbing era, free and as difficult as the routes could possibly be, but certainly safe. Then – a long time of silence around this unique wall. Up until Beat Kammerlander had a vision in mind.

He removed the bolts of the only free climbing line in this plate and then climbed it clean; there is talk of the “Prinzip Hoffnung”. With a clear “no” to a in suit protection Beat created something new at the Bürser Platte. Free climbing, mobile protections, that are placed while climbing, or plain „clean climbing“.

I was fascinated early by climbing with natural protection and so it came that in December 2009 I was able to realize the first repetition of the ”Prinzip Hoffnung”. I felt the urge for more, looking for a new challenge.

In the central part of the Bürser wall there is a delicate crack which meanders up, and completely levels off in the middle of the wall. While examining the line, it seemed impossible to climb safely with mobile protection. During the checkout in top rope I realized that the boulder at the end of the crack is really hard. From ten attempts I managed the boulder only once. Bad protection, „ground fall“ potential and a crux sequence I only succeeded every tenth time? A simple calculation – the project was too dangerous, wherefore it was put on ice.

This winter I thought a lot about walls, ice formations and mountains I wanted to try. But after my return from the ice-rich Norway my projects didn´t grow or they were in a ramshackle condition. So it was that I went to the Bürser plate again. The process began anew, boldering, checking the placements …. tactics. After several attempts I was able to connect the very uncertain sequences of movements. I was able to make all the moves, but that was only the beginning of the challenge to climb the route in a clean climbing style.


When I said that I am going for the lead there was silence at the ground of the wall. My friends Hannes and Flo, who tried to grant for my protection, took themselves back.
The energy surrounding us was palpable. Tension, then concentration. I felt my willingness to give absolutely everything I have, but still to act differentiated, also to decide conscious.
A compilation of all experiences and sequences of motions to a point – here and now. I´m ready.
There were three more falls until I climbed Psychogramm red point.
Alex Luger

Filmed and produced by Beat Kammerlander. Beat followed my process trying to clean climb this crazy line with his camera, so all the shots are real and the climbingshots were took during my three tries and on the fourth when I sent it. The movie is more a documentary than a climbing porn. It´s more than just a hard moves and chalking…..

Enjoy it.